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Old 01-10-2009, 17:35   #21
luapcire
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Look in the diesel section " replacing fuel injection pump help"
page 3,

they quated me the same for a leaking pump

got one from a salvage yard £ 100 inc vat 30 day warranty

change it in a weekend with a lot of help off this forum esp. Dakta

really runs sweet now

hope this helps
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Old 01-10-2009, 17:54   #22
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Yeah, I think that's the way I am going to go. Although I see these guys test and repair. http://www.remmington.plus.com/edc%20diesel%20pump.htm
They have posted on here though not seen any feedback. Diesel Bob is quoting £495+vat!

Anyway I think I am going to get it back from the garage and have a bash at least I can get to it without to much trouble. The only thing I think I'll need is the tool for the bolts into the belt housing (if thats what you call it!).

I don't have anything to lose as a garage fix costs not far off what the cars worth, and it seems a shame to send her off into the sunset. Being a 2003 2.0 Conniseur with 103,000 on the clock. She's pretty sound otherwise.
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Old 01-10-2009, 18:14   #23
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When parts do need coding to the ECU there's thousands of garages with the equipment to do it. If they haven't got such basic equipment I'd question their ability.
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Old 01-10-2009, 22:51   #24
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What a crock of crap yet more "good mechanics" that have not got a clue......get your car out of there sharpish and swap out the pump...
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Old 03-10-2009, 19:19   #25
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how you getting on job done?
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Old 03-10-2009, 20:53   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popshot View Post
When parts do need coding to the ECU there's thousands of garages with the equipment to do it. If they haven't got such basic equipment I'd question their ability.
Coding components to cars more often than not requires dealership computer equipment.

For instance, to enable the CD changer I've fitted to my 2006 BMW is over £190-worth of coding work
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Old 04-10-2009, 13:12   #27
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I'm betting it's the solenoid at the front of the pump (quantity metering solenoid) that has packed in.

It is needed to operate in both positions (open and closed) to fill and deliver fuel, so stuck in either position injection pressure and quantity will be precisely zero.
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Old 04-10-2009, 21:08   #28
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Hi, Only got the car back today. The battery,s dead so having to charge it. I now need to decide which way to go buy a new one or try and get it repaired. Whats your take replace or repair. I can get a new one for £400 a repair hopefully would be slightly less. I am going to have a bash next weekend if I just replace. Gives me a chance to get the part.If I send it for repair I'll have a go one evening.
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:56   #29
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I'd ring a bosch certified diesel specialist and discuss the possible costs for a repair. They'l want to diagnose it professionally, but worth asking what a fuel quantity metering solenoid (on the head of the pump, type VP30) will likely cost if it is the fault.
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Old 11-10-2009, 18:13   #30
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Hi All,
Finally got under the bonnet with my shiny new Haynes manual! And the crux of it all is I think I have identified the issue!!!. Not sure if it's good though. After removing all the air filter FIP belt cover etc. I went and removed after a bit of a fight the main drive belt upper cover. Something didn't look right as the belt was loose. A light pull revealed a shredded belt!!!!! I have heard some horror stories about drive belts going. And it seems odd this one has done 38,000 and the car was idling slowly all day until it glided to a stop. So not a failure I would have associated with a slow failure. I would have expected a bang!!!

Now the question is am I in trouble as I can replace the belt but I am suspecting the timing will be all out.

Anybody had any experience of this?

Thanks


C
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Old 11-10-2009, 18:24   #31
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As long as the pulley hasn't slipped on the shaft, should be easy to time up using the drill bit method. It is possible to get it 180 degs out if I remember right, but other than that should be easy enough.
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Old 11-10-2009, 18:51   #32
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Sorry drill bit method? You mean to lock it to TDC? What about piston and value damage? I was doing under 30 when it slowed and stopped.
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Old 11-10-2009, 18:54   #33
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you wont have any piston or valve damage from the fuel pump belt breaking lol
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Old 11-10-2009, 19:10   #34
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Ah sorry not sure I was clear it's the belt on the left of the engine. Not the fuel pump belt.
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Old 12-10-2009, 20:33   #35
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hi, i had this problem a few months back my sdi kept cutting out at lights and islands (not nice when you have to push on your own across 3 lanes) and i found the problem to be a dirty fuel pump wires get some degreaser and spray the conector, i cleaned mine and this solved the problem and touc h wood its been fine since .
please pm if this works
cheers
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Old 13-10-2009, 17:40   #36
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check for any rips on the intercooler pipes. does it throw out black smoke??
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Old 13-10-2009, 18:11   #37
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if its the cambelt then severe engine damage is likely.

there is another belt on the left though (ancilliary drive belt) so be sure it's the cambelt that has failed.
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Old 16-10-2009, 00:22   #38
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Hi Yeah it's definately the cam belt. I have managed to get hold of my friendly local ex rover mechanic who's going to give me his opinion. I'm keeping my fingers crossed but fearing the worst!! could be the great rover dealer in the sky!
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Old 16-10-2009, 02:00   #39
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argh, my sympathies

plenty of engines on the bay though, is she worth saving?
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Old 16-10-2009, 11:53   #40
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It does seem a shame to scrap it. The rest of the car is not in bad condition it's was the top of the range model at the time, but it's still only worth 1250-1500 tops. It just depends how much overall it's going to cost to sort it. Hopefully not that much.
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