Rover 200 / 400 Rover 200/400 - My heater Fan doesn't work on speeds 1,2 & 3 - "How Do I?" - Page 30 - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
 
 
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Old 21-03-2010, 20:04   #581
Madoda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by technozen View Post
I had to sort this problem on a mates 200 today, rather than buying a new resistor pack I decided to replace the resistors using standard ceramic resistors. I had already done this on my own car a while ago.
More details to follow, Dave I used some of your pics in the tutorial I made up.
Hey Technozen, any news on when your tutorial will be up for us dummies to use? Mine is dead on all 4 speeds now and I hate to put the bendy-wire pack back in. Do you have the resistance values for each resistor? I might be able to go to Maplins and make up my own if you do and would be willing to share them. Many thanks, mate.
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Old 21-03-2010, 20:46   #582
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I removed the tutorial as all of the information including the resistor values is now included in this thread.
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Old 22-03-2010, 12:34   #583
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Thumbs up I'm no mechanic but I managed this fix

Thanks to this forum I managed to fix my heater as it also wouldn't work on 1 & 2. I bought a resistor on Ebay and paid 18.95 including postage. It took me less than 30 mins to fit and I'm def not mechanically minded. Whilst you're fixing it is def worth cleaning out the pollen filter. Whilst you have the filter out run the fan on full to remove leaves and debris that may be blocking the outlet. If you don't there's a good chance a blockage can cause the resistor to bun out again.

Thanks for everyone who posted to help me with my fix. Brilliant site.
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Old 31-03-2010, 23:35   #584
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I managed to get a replacement resistor pack from a breakers yard, they wanted a fiver but I only had 4.49 in change so they took that. Swapped it over in about 15 mins and now got 1st & 2nd speeds working again.

Was going to buy resistors and have a dabble at soldering them on, but this was my saviour. (unless I still do it and sell it on ebay).

Thanks for all the help and advice regarding this problem.

Steve
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Old 03-04-2010, 13:22   #585
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Hi all, a newie here. Thanks for the thread so far. I've had the dead fan on positions 1 & 2 problem as well - both died at the same time I think. Found that the middle resistor was broken so I got new coils from Rezpax and have just spent a couple of hours reminding myself how bad I am at soldering...and the fan STILL doesn't work on the two lowest settings. Anyone got any ideas what my next port of call should be? Its a '98 414Si in case that has any bearing.
Thank you
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Old 03-05-2010, 14:13   #586
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Exclamation Done all this

I have taken this thing out, where is the motor its self I need to check its not seized up. Also the 40amp D fuse in the engine compartment keeps popping, could these be connected, my car worn even try to start, the AA chap said it was imobbalizer fault. ?? Any ideas,
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Old 06-06-2010, 13:33   #587
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Smile

i just went to my local scrappy and got another one, and heypresto....it now works perfectly....thanks
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Old 21-06-2010, 22:42   #588
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Anyone got any thoughts on W22 resistors? My electrician chappy at work doesn't like the long ceramic jobs mounted "japanese" style, as he says they'll wobble about (even though everyone here is happy with the solution, and they're hanging, so the legs aren't under any particular strain). The only downside to the W22's is they're about twice the price, but that means I might end up spending 6 instead of 3 - even in these straitened times, I might be able to stretch to that.

Here they are (random resistance selected as an example):

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...duct&R=1995505

He says they're better built, and smaller, so neater mounting.

Thanks in advance.

Martyn
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Old 22-06-2010, 12:53   #589
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The W22 resistors are only 16mm less in length than the SBCH 7 watt resistors.

You will still need 2 of each 7 watt W22 to achieve the correct disippation, the advantage of the square bodied SBCH is that they can be grouped together and wrapped with a piece of wire etc. so that they stay in place.

Either resistor type can be mounted very close to the pack terminals, so again length and hanging resistors isn't an issue.

The most important thing here is correct values of resistance and ensuring that the resistors used are able to disippate the power, get this wrong and they simply won't last.

The current flow through the resistor pack can be up to 20 amps!
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Old 29-06-2010, 18:22   #590
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ive just used this to swap mine....love it! haha

SJ
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Old 01-07-2010, 12:05   #591
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I have the very same fault on my MG ZS 120+.
I presume the procedure is the same, is that right?
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Old 01-07-2010, 15:02   #592
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I've just fixed mine, took 5 minutes. By the way, one from a Rover 45 will fit a Rover 400.
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Old 19-07-2010, 18:02   #593
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Thumbs up hi

tnx from post.
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Old 22-08-2010, 22:17   #594
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change only one resistor of resistor's pack

Quote:
Originally Posted by technozen View Post
I had to sort this problem on a mates 200 today, rather than buying a new resistor pack I decided to replace the resistors using standard ceramic resistors. I had already done this on my own car a while ago.
More details to follow, Dave I used some of your pics in the tutorial I made up.
My question is: if you change only one of resistor's pack, you have to solder two joints with stain solder but therefore the resistors become very hot when working, i think this excessive heat will melt the joints... So to avoid this you have to crimp the new resistor anyway with fast-on or similar metallic tubes. I have to change the resistor of the second fan speed which is about 0,75 to 1 Ohm and 10W power. Since i haven't found it in local stores, i'm considering to build it with steel wire and to fix it with a crimping joint to the other resistors.
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Old 22-08-2010, 23:32   #595
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Not necessary, the resistor temperature never exceeds 65-70 degrees C when operating thanks to the forced cooling by the fan.
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Old 28-08-2010, 00:33   #596
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Quote:
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Carefully remove the resistor

The fault is plain to see.

Refitment is a simple reversal of the above process.
Ok,
Your ideia is great, but after take a look to the pictures I dont see any resisters but 3 coils.
An electromagnetic coil (or simply a "coil") is formed when a conductor (usually an insulated solid copper wire) is wound around a core or form to create an inductor or electromagnet. One loop of wire is usually referred to as a turn, and a coil consists of one or more turns. For use in an electronic circuit, electrical connection terminals called taps are often connected to a coil. Coils are often coated with varnish and/or wrapped with insulating tape to provide additional insulation and secure them in place.
Thats the reason you have very small resistence values.
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Old 28-08-2010, 02:05   #597
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The wire used is Constantan........................................ ...
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Old 30-10-2010, 23:28   #598
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are you doing the resistor kits?
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Old 30-10-2010, 23:43   #599
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No, sorry.

Haven't supplied the kits for at least a year now.
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Old 03-11-2010, 16:46   #600
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Thanks to your advice i have just fixed my heater and saved myself 50. Garage quoted 65 but I found the part for 15 and did it myself. I am female and found it easy so if I can do it so can anyone
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