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Old 01-01-2006, 23:22   #1
Roperman
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DIY head gasket

im doing a HG change soon as the one on my dads 200 has gone. was the inlet manifold initially but he kept driving it and its now capable of emptying the coolant tank quite fast. he said something about a rumble coming from the engine, which went away quite quickly, what might this be? when i got the car off him the coolant tank was empty, its annoying coz it was only the inlet manifold gasket before but he kept driving it anyway. is this likely to have a warped head now?

what is the best place to get the uprated gasket? does anyone know the part number for the head set?

so far im replacing:
  • water pump
  • head gasket
  • inlet and exhaust gaskets
  • dowels - steel
  • cam cover gasket
  • timing belt
  • stretch bolts if longer than specified (does anyone know how long they're allowed to get?)

what do i look for to see if it needs a skim?

only HG ive done before is on my panda 4x4s FIRE engine, which looks a bit simpler than this, am i going to have my work cut out? any special tools needed? advice please
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Old 01-01-2006, 23:25   #2
Roperman
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just scouted ebay, should i get something like this:-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-25-75-MG...QQcmdZViewItem

or get this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-K-SERIES...QQcmdZViewItem (looks to have the neoprene green inlet gasket) and just get the uprated head gasket seperately?
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Old 01-01-2006, 23:30   #3
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Personally dont waste your time using none genuine head gaskets.
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Old 01-01-2006, 23:30   #4
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try sticking to OE parts thought i think Payen are quite goods aswell

all ways get the head skimmed before refit just look for any imperfections on the face side, dimples scrathes etc after all it's a soft alloy
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Old 01-01-2006, 23:31   #5
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I dont no alot, but you need a proper o.e.m. Rover Head Gasket set.
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Old 01-01-2006, 23:33   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by < KEVIN >
try sticking to OE parts thought i think Payen are quite goods aswell

all ways get the head skimmed before refit just look for any imperfections on the face side, dimples scrathes etc after all it's a soft alloy
If your saying allways get the head skimmed, why are you saying look for any imperfections?
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Old 01-01-2006, 23:37   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ash7990
If your saying allways get the head skimmed, why are you saying look for any imperfections?
cause he was asking what does he look for
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Old 01-01-2006, 23:38   #8
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cause he was asking what does he look for
ahhhhhhh rite!!
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Old 01-01-2006, 23:48   #9
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right, i'll have to take the valve train apart to do a skim right?

the 2nd ebay link are rover parts. does anyone know the price of the head gasket compared to the full conversion set? and water pumps, and cam belts.

how do i check that the head isnt distorted more than 8 thousandths, or will the machinists do this? correct me if im wrong but thats the upper warp limit on these heads.

has anyone done a DIY vacuum fill of the coolant system, and whats the best way to go about this? sorry i ask a lot of questions, but ive never done one before, im more at home on the a series - ive got 4 (was even thinking about a maestro 1.3 assembly in there, but it would need a complete rework of the loom...)
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Old 01-01-2006, 23:52   #10
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Off to bed right now, send me an email to latesATlates600DOTcom and I will dig out previous invoices for accurate pricings and post it up tomoz
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Old 02-01-2006, 00:08   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roperman
right, i'll have to take the valve train apart to do a skim right?

the 2nd ebay link are rover parts. does anyone know the price of the head gasket compared to the full conversion set? and water pumps, and cam belts.

how do i check that the head isnt distorted more than 8 thousandths, or will the machinists do this? correct me if im wrong but thats the upper warp limit on these heads.

has anyone done a DIY vacuum fill of the coolant system, and whats the best way to go about this? sorry i ask a lot of questions, but ive never done one before, im more at home on the a series - ive got 4 (was even thinking about a maestro 1.3 assembly in there, but it would need a complete rework of the loom...)
That's a very cheap HG set in the first link and even looks like the uprated HG in the set. However I don't understand what's exactly for sale. I doubt you'll get the Payen gasket at the front aswell which is the same as the Rover item.

You only need to remove the cams, tappets and carrier to do a Head skim.
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Old 02-01-2006, 00:11   #12
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The cam carrier will need to be removed for skimming they will do that on top of the cost for the skim usually an extra charge 20 est, top price in all for skim should be no more than 45 or you can remove the carrier your self but will need some proper sealent on refit.

OE est
gasket - 20
timing belt - 20
water pump - 25-30
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Old 02-01-2006, 07:23   #13
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Don't skim the head unless it needs it!
ie. The face is damaged or not flat by more than about 0.003" in any direction. (use a steel rule and feeler gauges)
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Old 02-01-2006, 11:29   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1955diesel
Don't skim the head unless it needs it!
ie. The face is damaged or not flat by more than about 0.003" in any direction. (use a steel rule and feeler gauges)
I don't know why people always say this?

It is pretty difficult to ascertain the trueness off a head with just a simple engineers ruler, especially for someone not skilled in these matters.

A skim is not only about the trueness of the head. A skim will create a nice new perfectly flat sealing surface for the gasket as the head is usually pitted in places anyway.
If the pitting is somewhere critical then you gonna be looking at HGF again sometime.
Cutting corners like that is not a good idea. Shaving a couple of thou off is not going to have detrimental affect.

I wonder how many people have not done this and had repeat HG failure?
If it happened to me it would be in the back of my mind as to the reason why. If you're gonna do a job like that you may aswell do it properly.
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Old 02-01-2006, 12:40   #15
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best bet is to take the head to a place that can do a skim and get them to check the head they will then be abel to tell you if it needs it may cost afew quid to get it checked but least you know it will be right
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Old 02-01-2006, 14:11   #16
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Shaving a couple of thou off is not going to have detrimental affect.


Sorry but I disagree, somewhere in the depths of data land there is a meaurement for the overall maximum height of the head.Thus there will always be threshhold where too much has been taken off.2 skims you are lucky, 3 skims and its in the bin time.Unless you know the life history of the head only skim when absolute necessary bearing in mind the overall height rule and it is always the customers choice wether to skim again at their risk.
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Old 02-01-2006, 16:05   #17
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Yeh, but if a head has been skimmed before you should be able to tell. The engineer at the shop should be able to tell you.
I'd be a bit cautious about re-skimming a head, but it's worth doing if it's never been done.
As long as it's within tolerance i'd get it done.
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Old 02-01-2006, 16:14   #18
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I dont agree to skim it if it has never been done unless that is there is evidence to support a skim is required.
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Old 02-01-2006, 18:59   #19
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I dont agree to skim it if it has never been done unless that is there is evidence to support a skim is required.
Seconded.

Cleaning up a head face manually needs care and takes time. That's why many 'professsionals' simply recommend ALWAYS getting a cylinder head skimmed even without checking if it needs it. Less time involved and the cost is passed on to the punter - usually with a few quid on top.

A good quality engineer's rule works fine in most cases and will certainly show if a head REALLY needs a skim.
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