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Old 11-02-2011, 09:04   #1
minshum
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Car: MG ZR
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P1402 P0121 P0113 & P0102 Codes on MG ZR TD+

Hi Guys,

Please help me. Here's my story...

ECU light came on about a month ago. Began running very lumpy at low rpm, but didn't really notice anything once I got going. Went to my usual guy, but he said it was an undocumented code and cleared it out. Light came back on after about 1/2mile.

As it has been getting progressively worse (more stuttery and black smoke) I booked it in for a T4 diagnostic. Car only just made it and I was down to a real crawl at times. The mech (Bob) suspected the EGR before he'd even connected it up and low & behold the code agreed (not sure what this one was; probably P1402).

HOWEVER, when he was revving it, I noticed the lower intercooler hose sucking right in! I knew this wasn't right as it has popped previously due to positive pressure. I replaced it 4/5 months ago.

So Bob opened up the air box and pulled out a carrier bag and a mangled air filter! Bingo! (so we thought). The filter element was duly replaced, the intercooler hose was now bulging rather than collapsing, and what he'd found was consistent with the symptoms and fault code. So, off I went a happy bunny.

Got about 3 miles down the road and when I tried to pull away from the lights it wouldn't accelerate and both ECU lights came on (one with and one without the exclamation mark). I was stuck in a fast idle condition, but as it's diesel, managed to get through the gears and return to the garage.

This time Bob found:

P1402 EGR-Actuator (Signal out of range. Too high)
P0121 Accelerator pedal sensor (ECU control line to pump solenoid shut off defective)
P0113 Air temperature sensor (Signal out of range. Too high)
P0102 Air flow sensor (Signal out of range. Too high)

He cleared the faults and revved the absolute @#*! out of it and it was fine, until I was about to set off, when the light came back on. Bob disconnected the EGR sensor and said that should get me home at least.

Well it nearly did. An hours drive across Brum in rush hour (about 15 miles) and got to the Chinese, no problem. Then when I pulled away from the Chinese, the fast-idle two-light scenerio returned (as I suspect code P0121 did too). So got it home on fast idle.

Now, how can I go from thinking the carrier bag was to blame to having all these faults!? Is one fault causing the others or do I need to take a look at wiring/connections?

Any advice on what I go for first?
Can I measure any signals with a multimeter?
Should disconnecting the EGR/MAF/MAP/whateveritscalled sensor (just after the air box) prove the sensor?
Can I test throttle sensor at all?

Cheers,
Matt
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Old 11-02-2011, 09:41   #2
XPart02
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Desford
Car: Rover 45 Impression L Series
Posts: 1,068
Quote:
Originally Posted by minshum View Post
Hi Guys,

Please help me. Here's my story...

ECU light came on about a month ago. Began running very lumpy at low rpm, but didn't really notice anything once I got going. Went to my usual guy, but he said it was an undocumented code and cleared it out. Light came back on after about 1/2mile.

As it has been getting progressively worse (more stuttery and black smoke) I booked it in for a T4 diagnostic. Car only just made it and I was down to a real crawl at times. The mech (Bob) suspected the EGR before he'd even connected it up and low & behold the code agreed (not sure what this one was; probably P1402).

HOWEVER, when he was revving it, I noticed the lower intercooler hose sucking right in! I knew this wasn't right as it has popped previously due to positive pressure. I replaced it 4/5 months ago.

So Bob opened up the air box and pulled out a carrier bag and a mangled air filter! Bingo! (so we thought). The filter element was duly replaced, the intercooler hose was now bulging rather than collapsing, and what he'd found was consistent with the symptoms and fault code. So, off I went a happy bunny.

Got about 3 miles down the road and when I tried to pull away from the lights it wouldn't accelerate and both ECU lights came on (one with and one without the exclamation mark). I was stuck in a fast idle condition, but as it's diesel, managed to get through the gears and return to the garage.

This time Bob found:

P1402 EGR-Actuator (Signal out of range. Too high)
P0121 Accelerator pedal sensor (ECU control line to pump solenoid shut off defective)
P0113 Air temperature sensor (Signal out of range. Too high)
P0102 Air flow sensor (Signal out of range. Too high)

He cleared the faults and revved the absolute @#*! out of it and it was fine, until I was about to set off, when the light came back on. Bob disconnected the EGR sensor and said that should get me home at least.

Well it nearly did. An hours drive across Brum in rush hour (about 15 miles) and got to the Chinese, no problem. Then when I pulled away from the Chinese, the fast-idle two-light scenerio returned (as I suspect code P0121 did too). So got it home on fast idle.

Now, how can I go from thinking the carrier bag was to blame to having all these faults!? Is one fault causing the others or do I need to take a look at wiring/connections?

Any advice on what I go for first?
Can I measure any signals with a multimeter?
Should disconnecting the EGR/MAF/MAP/whateveritscalled sensor (just after the air box) prove the sensor?
Can I test throttle sensor at all?

Cheers,
Matt
It sounds like it is intermitantly going into "limp home" mode.
First thing is to check the engine harness for damage.
They usually chafe on a bracket down behind the bumper.
Bit of a pig to get at I think without removing the bumper.

Common problem on the diesel and it throws up all sorts of misleading fault codes.
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Old 14-02-2011, 14:43   #3
minshum
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Car: MG ZR
Posts: 14
Question Harness behind bumper 'eliminated'

Thanks XPart

Quick update:

I had the bumper off on Sat. Prised the flexible conduit away from the chassis. Removed loom from conduit then fed through gap between rad and chassis. Then fed conduit through from one end.
I witnessed some very minor damage to pink/black wire (TPS) and was hoping I'd cracked it. Taped the loom properly and re-wrapped the conduit and taped that too. Left it fixed in front of rad.

Inspected wiring elsewhere, as far as practible including removing O/S headlamp and screenwash bottle. Couldn't free the ECU as the boltheads have corroded (near to battery).

Also, re-seated plugs-sockets (whilst applying a little WD40 to connections) to each of the affected sensors: TPS, EGR, MAP and MAF.

However, still have same problem. Seems to be worse when cold or just after a rest (10 min or so).

Looks like I need to start replacing sensors; but which one first?

Last edited by minshum; 01-03-2011 at 17:25.
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Old 14-02-2011, 19:39   #4
E_T_V
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Location: Under a car near scunthorpe
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As it is a ZR also check that the brake lights are working correctly as some weird symptoms can result.

Also check the earth to the slam panel as this is a common failure.

TPS wire chafing is increasingly more common so worth checking out thoroughly as the TPS themselves rarely fail (they are expensive to replace too!)
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Old 01-03-2011, 17:14   #5
minshum
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Car: MG ZR
Posts: 14
Improvement, but...

Thanks E_T_V, but I checked the TPS wiring (above) and also did some work on the bonnet slam earth.

I do have a brake light bulb out though, so better get that replaced!? Also, despite my repairing (soldering and heatshrinking) the boot hinge harness a few months ago, the rear wiper has stopped working again and I've read that even this can upset things.

I took it to a (third) garage on 16/02/11 and they read the same four codes: P1402, P0121, P0112 & P0102. This garage replaced the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, which I believe is also responsible for reading Air Temp.

Since then, I have had no ECU light come on! However, I did lose throttle again last week, so am really beginning to doubt the TPS.

I'll replace the brake light (and headlamp bulb) and if it happens again I think I'll be getting the TPS replaced.
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Old 02-03-2011, 20:57   #6
XPart02
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Car: Rover 45 Impression L Series
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minshum View Post
Thanks E_T_V, but I checked the TPS wiring (above) and also did some work on the bonnet slam earth.

I do have a brake light bulb out though, so better get that replaced!? Also, despite my repairing (soldering and heatshrinking) the boot hinge harness a few months ago, the rear wiper has stopped working again and I've read that even this can upset things.

I took it to a (third) garage on 16/02/11 and they read the same four codes: P1402, P0121, P0112 & P0102. This garage replaced the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, which I believe is also responsible for reading Air Temp.

Since then, I have had no ECU light come on! However, I did lose throttle again last week, so am really beginning to doubt the TPS.

I'll replace the brake light (and headlamp bulb) and if it happens again I think I'll be getting the TPS replaced.
I still reckon it could be a fault in the wiring harness. What you are describing is a known fault on a 25 diesel.
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Old 03-03-2011, 13:53   #7
adamsk
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i had the same issue with mine, it might be a case that the tps is out of range. i adjusted the cable on mine and it helped. just changed the engine coolant temp sensor and its running properly now
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